Saturday, May 13, 2017

Italy day 13 - Goodbye to Grosseto, on to Florence with a layover at the Palace of Water

Today we leave Grosseto and the home of friend. We felt very lucky that friend's mom and dad both stopped by to see us off. We had a lovely chat (with the help of Google Translate) and they generously offered us the use of friend's apartment the next time we come back. :)

We feel very fortunate in deed to have seen this corner of Italy. Without friend, I don't know that we ever would have come to Grosseto and yet it has become a favorite place. We will definitely use this quaint little town as a home base for future visits to Tuscany. I do think I made a tactical error this time, however. I didn't realize that there was a conveniently located car rental agency in Grosseto. Next time, we'll fly into Rome (Bigger airport, easier flights) and take the train to Grosseto, use a car while we're there, and then return to Rome again via train.

When we were in Japan we very much enjoyed the onsen experience and there are many thermal spas in the Tuscan countryside. Since this is something of an anniversary trip, we decided to splurge with a night in a combination castle/thermal spa, the Castello di Velona. We drive through the countryside until we see a castle perched on top of a large hill. We work our way up the driveway and all I can say is wow...360 degree panoramic views of the countryside and wineries, and that's just from the car park.

Now, it turns out that we were supposed to valet the car, so I got some strange looks from the valets as we wander up the driveway, but we press on, undeterred. We head inside to an empty reception area, not realizing that it's 1pm and check-in isn't until 3pm. We eventually run into one of the staff members who immediately kicks it into high gear. After collecting our information, he asks if we'd like help with our bags (We had left everything in the car. That car park was a long way down the hill!) I'm normally a do-it-myself kind of traveler, but this seemed like a we-do-it-for-you kind of place. I flip him my keys and he hands us off to one of his peers for a tour of the castle.

Now, to be fair, this is a very small castle. Think less Buckingham Palace and more...erm...Millionaire's Row in Cleveland. They've added on to the original space, but there are still only 25 or 30 rooms in total to the place. And the rooms are nice, but that's not why you're there. What was a-maze-ing was the 'Palace of Water,'  an aquatic complex fed by the hot springs the building sits above. And oh my, palace doesn't do it justice. Outside there is an amazing split level pool with various in-water seating areas and lounges that overlook the vineyard and the mountains. The lower pool connects via a swim-through tunnel to the inner pool that also has a whirlpool tub big enough for 12 or 15 of your closest friends.

And then there's the downstairs complex. Here is the main really hot whirlpool, a series of 'emotional showers,' a shaved ice station (for cooling off your skin, not for eating...) two steam rooms, a sauna, and a relaxation area. Kris and I were giddy to try out everything, so we quickly went to our room, where the porters had brought in everything from the car, as if by magic, and hopped into swimsuits. We then proceeded to turn ourselves into prunes by hanging out in the various pools and rooms for the rest of the day.

The only downside of the whole experience was that the restaurant was pretty mediocre. However, when average food is accompanied by a sunset that looks like this one, I'll make allowances!

Sunset over the Palace of Water




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