We got a slow start this morning, but on purpose this time. With nowhere to go, we slept in until at least 8am. Woo hoo! After we were up, we took our time getting ready and headed out to the city.
We went to a bookstore a number of years ago that was having a going-out-of-business sale and found these great cards called 'City Walks'. I think the set we bought that day was for Paris. Each deck has about fifty laminated, heavy card stock pages that gives you a walk with various points of interest. You can generally string together 4 or 5 cards to make a pretty decent day. So today, Kris used the deck to put together a day exploring the Pantheon and the area around the Piazza Navona.
The Piazza Navona reminded me a lot of Times Square. Lots of folks targeting tourists for lots of different things. It was pretty crowded, but the main fountain was worth it. From there, we worked our way over to the Pantheon. Now, keep in mind, we got a really late (for us) start. The crowds were daunting here t say the least. When I saw the line to get in, I was pretty much ready to bag it and head elsewhere. However, we dutifully found the end WAAAAAY at the back of the piazza. And I'm really glad we did. The line here actually moves really quickly and once inside. Oh my! The sunlight streaming in through the top of the dome was amazing!
The light had a physical presence to it that's indescribable. It was tough to keep in mind that this is an active church. Something about the round building I think. But periodically they played a SHHHHHH to quiet down the crowds.
Unfortunately, as we entered the structure, I took off my hat and tucked it into the back of my shorts. It should be noted, this was the perfect hat. It was white in a light-weight, quick dry fabric and had a terry cloth liner that was super comfy. You can probably guess by my use of the past tense that at some point during our visit to the Pantheon, I lost my hat. 😠We retraced our steps from the Pantheon when I realized a short time later that it was gone, but to no avail.
This is vacation, however. There is no room for crying over lost hats! So, on to the next monument. I think my lost hat laid a pall over the rest of the day, however, as every church we went to after the Pantheon was closed. Either for the day (PSA - Labor day is kind of a big deal...) or for siesta (see the late start.) I know Kris was a bit frustrated, but on the plus side, the weather was beautiful (even if the sun was streaming into my eyes due to lack of hat) and the walks were pleasant.
We did get to Cheisa di Sant'Agostino just as they reopened for the afternoon to see the three Caravaggio's there. They're absolutely stunning! And mostly worth all of the pushy people trying to get just the right viewing angle on them. Sharp elbows are a must here!
Also along the way today, we say the Italian White House, the Senate building, and the Supreme Court. It was a government kind of day, it seems. I gotta say, we beat Italy for White Houses, but our Supreme Court doesn't hold a candle to theirs. It's the type of building that would lead gravitas to any decision.
After coming to two more closed churches on our list, we decided to call it an afternoon and head back to the apartment to rest and clean up for dinner. Kris got reservations at Restaurante All'Oro, which currently has one macaron. Kris has a full write-up of the meal on his Facebook page. All in all, it was pretty good, but some of the food was too clever by half. I don't know that I'd go back and they definitely don't get space on the powder room wall, but it was an enjoyable meal. I think the potato/cod tiramisu (really a deconstructed croquette) was my favorite dish. I thought it was odd that they served bread, but had no bread plates. And the check came on a tiny yellow couch.
Tomorrow we have a super early start again and we must be on time. The Vatican awaits! We'll see which one of us is turned into a pillar of salt upon walking thru the doors of the Basilica. If you don't hear from me again, you'll know!
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